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Surf Rage
Alexandre MEGRET (Adresse IP journalisée) - jeu. 6 septembre 2001 10:14:09

<HTML>Touvé sur alt.surfing : le book review de Neal Miyake (aka Sponge) sur Surf
Rage de Nat Young. Je viens de le commander sur amazon.

@lex

---


Surf Rage: A Surfer's Guide to Turning Negatives into Positives
Introduced by Nat Young

This book review began, oddly enough before I even purchased the book. This
is a post I sent to alt.surfing on April 6, 2001:

*****

While shopping at Costco this weekend, I decided to buy the new book by Nat
Young entitled Surf Rage. The checkout lady noticed the book and inquired
what the book was all about. Apparently, she had a taste of surf rage
herself.

She said that one time at Queens (Waikiki), she was accosted by this man in
the lineup. She did not mention what lead to the confrontation, but this guy
started mouthing off big time at her.

Suddenly he shot the board out at her, hitting her in the stomach. She was
in pain, but when the realization of the offense hit home, she got pissed
off and punched the guy in the face. Broke his nose! It was his first time
surfing.

But that's not the worse of it. Several days later, she went to the hospital
with some cramps. Unbeknownst to her, she was pregnant but had suffered a
miscarriage.
Whether the board spearing was the cause, we'll never know. However, she was
traumatized from the whole thing. All this explained to me while scanning my
goods and making change.

Looking forward to reading the book, but I don't know if it'll come close to
this.

sponge (Costco member since 1990)

******

I finally got a chance to read the book (27 Aug 01) and here's my take:

Although the byline for the book says Nat Young, most of the stories were
written by other surfers, mostly Australians. It's truly ironic that Nat
"the Animal" Young is the one condemning "surf rage" since he's the very
surfer who embodied surf aggression in and out of the water throughout his
life. It's akin to a high school dropout trying to tell children to stay in
school. But I digress.

On March 16, 2000, Nat got into a fight in the lineup and copped a serious
beating (see picture below). It was this incident that prompted him to write
and compile this book.

Refreshingly, the book isn't about only surf rage (the equivalent to driving
's road rage). Each author had very enlightening incidents to share and
analyzed the how's and possibly why's they occurred.

Things that are discussed included: localism, territorialism, respect, surf
media intervention, the laughability of "secret" spots, surf tourism,
professionalism, other waveriding vehicles, women, recent incidents in the
news, Zorba of Oxnard, the Ranch, and the infamous Saltbush in Southern
Australia. The very end has some silly conflict resolution and anger
management tips, along with a wrap-up by Nat on things that can be done to
reduce surf rage (like making artificial waves and more surf breaks).

I personally enjoyed the book. The writing delves deep into analysis and
meaning of subtle surfing nuances that only a surfer will truly appreciate
(very similar to the kind of dialog that occurs on the alt.surfing
newsgroup). Being published in Australia, it is amusingly full of
Aussie-speak and spelling, something that this Hawaii boy is not totally
familiar with but still enjoyed (seemed to add a bit more authenticity and
flavor). Some of the writers are stronger than others, but the overall
quality of penmanship is high. The Saltbush incident is like the Mad Max of
surfing.

One of the best nuggets in the book was a picture of the "Tribal Laws", a
surfing poster installed at Margaret River, Western Australia. There are
good drawings on the poster describing the laws. The words are worth
repeating for all surfers, beginners to advanced:

Tribal Law: Surfriders Code of Ethics

Right of Way: (1) Furthest out (or waiting longest), (2) Furthest inside
(closest to peak), (3) First to feet or on wave, (4) Call: communicate (left
or right)
Do Not: (1) Drop in, (2) Snake
Paddle wide, using rip
Caught inside, stay in the whitewater
Danger: Do not throw board (in danger of others)
Respect the beach, the ocean and others
Give respect to gain respect
We are very lucky to be surfers--share the water

sponge (guilty of "raging" a few times and not proud of it)
www.hisurfadvisory.com

Pics and links at: [www.hisurfadvisory.com]




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Surf Rage
@lex (Adresse IP journalisée) - jeu. 6 septembre 2001 10:18:16

<HTML>Touvé sur alt.surfing : le book review de Neal Miyake (aka Sponge) sur Surf
Rage de Nat Young. Je viens de le commander sur amazon.

@lex

---


Surf Rage: A Surfer's Guide to Turning Negatives into Positives
Introduced by Nat Young

This book review began, oddly enough before I even purchased the book. This
is a post I sent to alt.surfing on April 6, 2001:

*****

While shopping at Costco this weekend, I decided to buy the new book by Nat
Young entitled Surf Rage. The checkout lady noticed the book and inquired
what the book was all about. Apparently, she had a taste of surf rage
herself.

She said that one time at Queens (Waikiki), she was accosted by this man in
the lineup. She did not mention what lead to the confrontation, but this guy
started mouthing off big time at her.

Suddenly he shot the board out at her, hitting her in the stomach. She was
in pain, but when the realization of the offense hit home, she got pissed
off and punched the guy in the face. Broke his nose! It was his first time
surfing.

But that's not the worse of it. Several days later, she went to the hospital
with some cramps. Unbeknownst to her, she was pregnant but had suffered a
miscarriage.
Whether the board spearing was the cause, we'll never know. However, she was
traumatized from the whole thing. All this explained to me while scanning my
goods and making change.

Looking forward to reading the book, but I don't know if it'll come close to
this.

sponge (Costco member since 1990)

******

I finally got a chance to read the book (27 Aug 01) and here's my take:

Although the byline for the book says Nat Young, most of the stories were
written by other surfers, mostly Australians. It's truly ironic that Nat
"the Animal" Young is the one condemning "surf rage" since he's the very
surfer who embodied surf aggression in and out of the water throughout his
life. It's akin to a high school dropout trying to tell children to stay in
school. But I digress.

On March 16, 2000, Nat got into a fight in the lineup and copped a serious
beating (see picture below). It was this incident that prompted him to write
and compile this book.

Refreshingly, the book isn't about only surf rage (the equivalent to driving
's road rage). Each author had very enlightening incidents to share and
analyzed the how's and possibly why's they occurred.

Things that are discussed included: localism, territorialism, respect, surf
media intervention, the laughability of "secret" spots, surf tourism,
professionalism, other waveriding vehicles, women, recent incidents in the
news, Zorba of Oxnard, the Ranch, and the infamous Saltbush in Southern
Australia. The very end has some silly conflict resolution and anger
management tips, along with a wrap-up by Nat on things that can be done to
reduce surf rage (like making artificial waves and more surf breaks).

I personally enjoyed the book. The writing delves deep into analysis and
meaning of subtle surfing nuances that only a surfer will truly appreciate
(very similar to the kind of dialog that occurs on the alt.surfing
newsgroup). Being published in Australia, it is amusingly full of
Aussie-speak and spelling, something that this Hawaii boy is not totally
familiar with but still enjoyed (seemed to add a bit more authenticity and
flavor). Some of the writers are stronger than others, but the overall
quality of penmanship is high. The Saltbush incident is like the Mad Max of
surfing.

One of the best nuggets in the book was a picture of the "Tribal Laws", a
surfing poster installed at Margaret River, Western Australia. There are
good drawings on the poster describing the laws. The words are worth
repeating for all surfers, beginners to advanced:

Tribal Law: Surfriders Code of Ethics

Right of Way: (1) Furthest out (or waiting longest), (2) Furthest inside
(closest to peak), (3) First to feet or on wave, (4) Call: communicate (left
or right)
Do Not: (1) Drop in, (2) Snake
Paddle wide, using rip
Caught inside, stay in the whitewater
Danger: Do not throw board (in danger of others)
Respect the beach, the ocean and others
Give respect to gain respect
We are very lucky to be surfers--share the water

sponge (guilty of "raging" a few times and not proud of it)
www.hisurfadvisory.com

Pics and links at: [www.hisurfadvisory.com]






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Re: Surf Rage
Paul Couderc (Adresse IP journalisée) - jeu. 6 septembre 2001 13:20:29

<HTML>En réponse à Alexandre MEGRET <alexandre.megret@cgey.com>:

>
>
> Touvé sur alt.surfing : le book review de Neal Miyake (aka Sponge) sur
> Surf
> Rage de Nat Young. Je viens de le commander sur amazon.
>

> localism, territorialism, respect, laughability of "secret spots"

Très interessant, je vais l'acheter je pense...

Paul

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