Secrets spots

Paul Couderc / Alexandre Megret - february 2001

Here are descriptions of some the "secret" spots of Brittany, without identification or location information of course ;-). Unlike the classical ones, they require some patience, exploration or local acquaintance in order to be ridden. We rated them using two criterion :

Confidentiality

• semi-secret: the spot used to be secret but is now known by most surfers in Brittany
• secret: the spot is known by most locals of the area
• top-secret: the spot is almost unknown

"Protection"

• easy: the spot is easy to find and access
• medium: the spot is not easy to find or access (it requires some special conditions to work, or is hidden, etc.)
• hard: the spot is very difficult to find or access

KH-1

A good lefthander, offering a long ride on the good days and working with consistent W to SW swells, best a SE wind. The initial section breaks on a rock plate and can be quite powerful. The spot holds waves up to 6 ft. Warning: the shorebreak is dangerous at high tide.

PE-1

Confidentiality	Protection
secret	easy

A quite mellow and small righthander, nice to ride with a big longboard. The wave works only with huge SW swells, offshore with any westerly wind.

I1

Fun righthander over rocks, rarely surfed. On the other side of the point there is a heavy left dominated by spongers. S wind and moderate W swells. Other weirdo reefs in this area, high potential.

PQP

Two good quality waves (lefthander and righthander), quite powerful, in a beautiful (but stinky) surroundings. Works with any moderate swell, waves are surfable up to 6 ft. Unfortunately, water is contaminated and you risk big health hazard surfing there.

RB-1

A very good pointbreak (lefthander) protected from SW winds. Needs a big swell to start working, makeable only on the low tide. Warning: the wave breaks extremly close to the rocks of the point.

LV-1

Two good reef, in particular a good and long righhander holding up to 10'. Works only with a consistent SW swell and a northerly wind.

LF-1

Heavy shore break, can be surfed up to 8 feet. Lots of sand and power in the waves when over 4 feet. Can be magic at mid-tide with the right swell. Requires W swells and S winds.

RS-1

In fact two spots, around a nice beach. In the north, a dangerous and chaotic righthander reef break, not very worthy in my opinion. On the south, an acceptable beachbreak/shorebreak offering a quite powerful left. The spot requires a big W swell and a northerly wind.

PNZ

Classic beach break on stabilised bank. Righthand tubes to be ridden up to 8 feet. Heavily localised. S wind and NW swell.

LC-1

Bodyboarding only reef. Barreling rights with boils and partially submerged reef : short and intense. Protected from W winds, can hold suckers up to 6 feet, requires moderate W swells. Bummer : works during 30 mn only.

LF-2

An hazardous reef break (righthander), powerful, up to 8 ft. Requires a big swell to works, perfect with a S wind.

LB-1

Good beach break, with long and very powerful waves, up to 10 ft. Works with a SW swell, offshore with easterly winds. Very strong currents, and dangerous shorebreak.

TRS-1

Point/Reef left hander, starts working over 4 feet, up to 8 feet. Can be surfed on 200m+ on good days. Dangerous rocky shallow section 30m after take off zone. S wind and W swell.

PL-1

Funny beach break, with waves up to 6 ft. Better with a consistent SW swell and northerly winds. Powerful shorebreak at high tide.

IT-1

A small, short and nervous righthander, breaking over a sharp shallow reef. The takeoff section is fast and steep, then the wave slow down, accelerating again on the insider section where it usually closes out brutally. The spot is very sheltered and requires a huge swell to works. Better with a SE wind.

LG-1

Nice beach break with rocks stabilized sandbars. From long barreling rights to hollow A frame bowls depending on tide. Classic point-break like screamers at 6 feet and more. W swells and S winds.

BL-1

A nice and very good quality lefthander reefbreak, quite long and powerful, holding good size. Works with any consistent swell. Offshore with easterly winds.

SO-1

Vicious shore break, fast and powerful lefts unload on shallow stabilised sandbars. No more than one or two feet of water. Intense barrels, foam balls and bad wipe outs. Protected from W winds, requires a large swell.

CL-1

A very powerful reef break (lefthander), working with any moderate to big swell and an easterly wind (up to 6 ft, may be more). The take off section is extremely steep and violent, with a huge lip pounding the nearly dry reef. The wave is short and intense. In my opinion, the wave does not worth the risk in surf, I see it as a bodyboard-only wave.

OP-1

A good big wave reefbreak (lefthander) holding 10ft and probably more. The wave is short, offering simply a big drop. The line-up approach is safe, even by huge swell, and placement for take off is very easy. Requires a big SW to NW swell, and an E to SE wind.